OK, so they are a long way off - maybe half a mile out in the Bay - but their waterspouts jetting high into the air are clear to see. And the excitement is just as high as the first time we ever saw whales further down off the Baja coast a few years ago. Getting close to them and their vast presence was a surprisingly emotional experience, and seeing them now is just as thrilling.
The wildlife around Monterey is one of its attractions. So far today we've seen seals, ground squirrels, sea otters, a white kestrel-like hawk, vivid blue starling lookalikes, huge orange butterflies, lots of pelicans and the ubiquitous seagulls. And earlier, as we rode our bikes through the pine forest adjacent to the sea, a couple of deer had trotted and sprung across the road in front of us.
And now whales.
But the wildlife isn't the best thing about the coast road south from Monterey. That accolade has to go to the Pacific coast itself.
"How's your ride goin'?" drawled a passer-by as we stopped (again) to admire the view.
I was temporarily lost for words.
"How do you describe it?" I responded weakly.
He grinned in acknowledgement.
"Yeah, there aren't really words, are there."
He was completely correct. How do you even begin to describe this glorious, crashing, thundering coastline, the azure sky reflecting on a postcard blue sea, ripped by pure-white breakers as they tumble uproariously on to the jagged coves and promontories and the perfect Californian sands.
It's almost too much to take in. You simply have to be there.
It was a glorious day, which helped. The cold edge to the breeze that had made a sweatshirt and jacket advisable for the last few days had abated, and the Californian sunshine was out in all it's radiance. A perfect day for cycling.
We hired bikes from the shop opposite our hotel and followed the coastal trail to the pretty town of Pacific Grove, with its multicoloured homes running along the appropriately named Ocean View Boulevard, making a delightful backdrop to the devastatingly beautiful Bay scene.
I wondered how much it would cost to own a home here in this idyll, a couple of hours south of San Francisco?
Sotheby's were selling a 3-bed house on the Boulevard, not overly large, maybe needing some freshening up, but on offer for the surprisingly modest price of $1.59 million. Hmm, tempting. Maybe I should investigate holiday letting possibilities to cover the mortgage payments. After all, if we owned a place like this, we would only want to be here 2,3,4 or possibly 5 months in the year.
Or would that be time enough?
I wondered how much we would get for renting our home in Loughborough for, say, 11 months in the year?
Must talk it over with Sue.
"Hey, Susie, you know that house we passed that was for sale? I bet you could see the whales from there....."
Andy
23-02-2012